I’m a Luxury Jewelry Expert: How To Determine Which Pieces Can Hold Big Value

Luxury jewelry can come with a steep price tag—but what’s the difference between a quality item and overpriced junk? With over 30 years of experience, Natasha Anspach is a buyer of pre-owned fine jewelry, diamonds and luxury watches for CIRCA who brings “a meticulous eye for quality, detail and value.”
She gave MoneyLion the lowdown on which jewelry brands, gemstones and vintage pieces are actually worth the most money — and how to be on the lookout for them.
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Brands: Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, JAR, Belperron and Patek Philippe
Established, heritage jewelry houses have strong and enduring demand. Anspach stated what truly distinguishes the most expensive brands is exceptional craftsmanship as well as high-quality materials, diamonds and gemstones. However, a famous name alone does not guarantee authenticity so be sure to inspect serial numbers, signature and construction.
For reference, here is the price of entry-level pieces for the aforementioned brands:
Cartier: $1,300+
Van Cleef & Arpels: $1,000 to $2,000
JAR: $4,000 to $10,000
Belperron: $15,000 to $20,000
Patek Philippe: $17,000 to $27,000
Gemstones: Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds and Natural Diamonds
Anspach stated, “important gemstones tend to combine exceptional color, established origin, large size, minimal to no treatment, respected laboratory documentation and historical provenance. (For the uninitiated, “provenance” means the chronological history of ownership.)
“The combination of all these factors significantly increases the gemstone’s rarity and, consequently, its value.”
She recommended looking for reports from internationally respected gemological laboratories like GIA or Gubelin to verify authenticity.
Vintage Pieces: Era, Design, Gemstones, Provenance and Maker
Anspach noted that age alone does not create value, saying, “The highest prices sit at the intersection of a desirable period, iconic design, remarkable gemstones and provenance.”
This is especially true for “pieces with antique diamonds, rich gemstones or natural pearls mounted in gold with tones of patina.” Add an important maker like Cartier and the price soars.
Jewelry iconic to its era includes pieces from the Georgian Era (1714 to 1837), Belle Epoque Era (1895 to 1914), Edwardian Era (1901 to 1915) and Art Deco Era (1920 to 1939).
For reference, here are 3 vintage piece which fetched a cool sum at auction:
Hutton-Mdivani Jadeite Bead Necklace: $27.4 million (Art Deco Era, made with beads carved in China during the Qing dynasty)
1912 Devant-de-corsage Brooch: $10.6 million (Belle Epoque Era, designed by Cartier)
300-Carat Anglesey Necklace: $4.8 million (Georgian era, has ties to Marie Antoinette)
This article was provided by MoneyLion.com for informational purposes only and should not be construed as financial, legal or tax advice.
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